Yesterday's Weapons Forums

Both my Pietta .44 cal 'Buffalo Hunter' ( 12" barrel ) and my Uberti .44 revolving carbine revolve past the nipple with each cocking of the hammer and have to be manually turned back for nipple to be under the hammer (oh yeah, and for the chamber to align with the barrel ... not that is important ). I haven't looked at the carbine yet - one thing at a time - but the Buffalo Hunter doesn't seem to match up with all the various posts & videos on the subject.

The bolt doesn't come up far enough to stop the cylinder. It looks as if the bolt stop and trigger spring doesn't press down on it enough, although it does engage the trigger properly. None of the posts & videos address this. It is all about filing the bolt stop cam and various other surfaces.

The spring is split into two 'fingers', a long one for the trigger and a shorter one for the bolt. Both fingers follow the same curve, but since one is longer than the other it ends about 1/8" lower than the short (bolt) one. Is this right? I tried bending it by hand but don't want to go overboard, and I don't want to heat treat it so I can bend it easily and then reheat it to get it back to the proper spring tension. Especially if this is what it is supposed to look like and the problem is elsewhere.

Plus the bolt stop itself has some pretty severe angles on it. Like sloping from a third of the way up on the right side, maybe 15degrees, up to the top with the top surface maybe a 50 degree slope down to about 3/4 the way up on the left side. The top surface is rounded, front to back, presumably to match the groove it is supposed to fit into. These are all clean even surfaces so I'm thinking they were machined this way and not due to wear.

_________________
Them that know, know that they know. Them that don't know don't know they don't know.

The split spring doesn't cost much & I always have a couple spares on hand. You want to make adjustments with that rather than grinding on the stop itself. When timing a cylinder, I try adjusting the spring screw a quarter turn at a time until everything works right.

Then you can make index marks with a scribe or small dots of model car paint.

So score a couple extra springs and bend as much as you like to achieve the desired result.

While you're on a site like Taylors or Buffalo arms, order a few other cheep spares. SW

_________________
Slava Ukraini!!

_________________
Them that know, know that they know. Them that don't know don't know they don't know.

It looks as if one quarter turn shy of fully turned in and the stop rises a tiny bit more. not enough, but more.
Without the trigger guard in place I can press on the stop spring and that brings it up fully.
No damnit! It comes up fully in the over travel portion, but settles back down (too low) when I ease the hammer back to full cock. So I think that is trying to tell me the stop spring pressure is part of the problem but not all of it. Aargh!

_________________
Them that know, know that they know. Them that don't know don't know they don't know.

That's why you need spares - keep messing until you find the sweet spot. A shorter screw is also a possibility. SW

_________________
Slava Ukraini!!

_________________
Them that know, know that they know. Them that don't know don't know they don't know.

Get extra springs - soon! SW

_________________
Slava Ukraini!!

_________________
Them that know, know that they know. Them that don't know don't know they don't know.

They don't cost much and can just be tossed if broken. The majority of cap& ball timing problems relate to this spring. If you send one to be fixed, they will just change springs until it works right - maybe mess around with spring screw tension.

The extra springs are money well spent. SW

_________________
Slava Ukraini!!