Yesterday's Weapons Forums

...its been a while since i've done one and cant remember ......a laminate K98 stock heavy in BLO.....what takes off BLO-other than "stripper" or is that all...???....I know what I'm gonna do to refinish it-I just cant remember what got off old BLO....
....I've finally found the CORRECT stock for one of my K98's ...just want the BLO off...the rest I know...

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....Naj puška govori!....
.............deplorable typical "bitter clinger"....

Regular dish soap applied with a plastic dish scrubbing brush works for me... 'left-a circle; right-a circle... wax on; wax off'

When it's hot out I use whiting. Set the stock where it will get hot in the sun... some guys use the oven, but wifey sez ( with emphasis) that ain't an option here.

So the stock gets hot & starts to 'sweat' oil, paint on some whiting - I make a slurry with acetone. Put the stock back in the hot place & the whiting will leach it right out. Whiting will turn from white to tan or brown as it soaks up the oil - after it dries, you just knock it off the wood with a whisk broom or similar. SW

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Slava Ukraini!!

.....I may have not been clear enough-I'm not talking about oil or grease stock cleaning,I know how to do that-its just overcoated in boiled linseed oil(BLO)....its clean underneath-I just want to get BLO off and down to the wood...I dont think blo comes off with soapy water

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....Naj puška govori!....
.............deplorable typical "bitter clinger"....

Squirt some liquid soap on a small area & try - it should get at least some - less water is better but you need a little. If you'd like, I could send you some whiting to try. Mix with nail polish remover & away you go.

I'd put it in an old film can so the federales wouldn't show up investigating "an unknown white powdery substance"! SW

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Slava Ukraini!!

....nah-no need for whiting....I'll try a couple things first...

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....Naj puška govori!....
.............deplorable typical "bitter clinger"....

Have you tried mineral spirits?

Rad

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NRA Benefactor Member
AMA Life Member
Tri-State Gun Collectors Life Member

....nope-that was on my list....I couldnt recall if it was mineral spirits-or denatured alchohol,or some other nice smelly stuff....

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....Naj puška govori!....
.............deplorable typical "bitter clinger"....

Denatured alcohol works on shellac.

Rad

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NRA Benefactor Member
AMA Life Member
Tri-State Gun Collectors Life Member

I used denatured alcohol on mine.

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....this stock is overkilled in BLO-not shellac or varnish

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....Naj puška govori!....
.............deplorable typical "bitter clinger"....

alcohol and mineral spirits will work wonders but leave things really dry and in need of immeadiate rework to prevent overdrying ,

the dish soap cuts oil great and with the water it doesnt overdry too quickly allowing you to work at a reasonable pace cant find acetone as readily as you used to but it works great too , on the order of the alcohol

I use acetone. It dries real fast and can really dry out the wood.

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"The great object is, that every man be armed."
- Patrick Henry

"Firearms stand next in importance to the Constitution itself. They are the people's liberty teeth ...... firearms everywhere restrains evil interference. When firearms go, all goes..."
GEORGE WASHINGTON

....ah-Haaaa.... ....this is the details I be waitin' to hear....I have a good supply of acetone ,mineral spirits,and the denatured alchohol...I'll have to decide which of the 3 to use....I'm not concerned of the drying because when I do this I'm gonna be using a Finn Military stock concoction to apply immediatly after I'm sure all traces of undesirable stuff is gone... ....and I will have preppy daughter take pics to post before and afters with her hi-tech cellcam since mine takes pics,but wont send anymore(means cheapo)....hers works darn good...

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....Naj puška govori!....
.............deplorable typical "bitter clinger"....

I am not sure that I understand the "overdone" part with BLO.

If it wasn't wiped down after application then it would have tacky "drips" that dry to a hard crust. I would go over it with fine steel wool & some gun oil to lubricate, that should take off any excess, The rest should be absorbed into the pores of th exposed wood & leave a glow. Now if it a shiny gloss mess then it might not be BLO?

Also I would avoid too much of the stock mix as it will build up the oil/wax in areas that you might not want. Remember the majority of a laminated stock will not absorb anything as it has been impregnated with a resin. I would let it just absorb BLO where it can & get rid of any excess.

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It's 5 o'clock and it's watermelon time.....................
because you can't drink beer & load rockets - TXPete

.....yeah-I know....I'm basically wanting to get down to BARE wood and get the BLO off,as it seems from what I can see in the pics(it wont be here till Wednesday-well,maybe Tuesday) it was not cleaned and has oil/grease dark spots underneath the heavy schlopped on BLO....wont know till I get it-I just want it off and start from the beginnink...
.....THIS is my "winter project" and it will be documented with before/after

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....Naj puška govori!....
.............deplorable typical "bitter clinger"....

What is this whiting? I have redone quite a few old military stocks but I don't believe I've ever heard of the stuff.

Calcium carbonate. Brownells sells it as 'whiting'. SW

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Slava Ukraini!!

Ummh, I've actually had experience with BLO so thick it was gooey, not to mention very old, so the goo was actually harden. It was used as a long term storage protectant. I finally used KleanX StripX, which has your very nasty chemicals in it. I then use a steam iron as my heat source and bring the oil out that way too. Whiting sounds nice though. The steam heat does slightly remove dents.

I had to mention this since caked on BLO is plain nasty. All the fore mentioned solvents bounced off it. Only professional stripper worked. Next time acetone, who knows?

Best Regards,

Mark

If you do ever use KleanX StripX, ventilation is a must!