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Yesterday's Weapons Forums • View topic - This might save someone time & money

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 20, 2015 11:27 pm 
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Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
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Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 11655
Location: On the couch a lot now that I'm retired
I ordered a Taylor 38 centerfire cylinder for the Uberti 1861 36 cal Navy C&B revolver I scored at a recent gunshow. $200 for that & I got a couple spare parts while I was at it. Got the cylinder in - clearly marked for Uberti C&B. Revolver clearly marked Uberti...

It wouldn't work. Cylinder locked up & wouldn't rotate. :oops: Rats! What to do? I considered calling Taylor for advice on which parts I needed to order to fix it but fell asleep & it was too late to call when I got up.

Time to apply a logical thought process... prominent drag marks on the C&B cylinder... the bolt hadn't been hand fitted! Took it clear apart & the machining marks hadn't been polished from the cylinder stop - meaning it worked on the 1st try at the factory so they left well enough alone and shipped it like that.

I got out a knife sharpening stone & raided a small amount of cooking oil from the kitchen. Going slowly, I stoned the top and sides of the cylinder stop. Polished it on a Cratex flexible abrasive Dremel tip until it shined. Didn't actually use the Dremel - I just wanted to polish it.

Put the revolver back together - dropped the centerfire cylinder in place... WOO HOO!!! :bigrin: It works like a champ!! :bigrin: On the 1st try!!! I'd rather be lucky than good! ;) :jmp:

Took it apart one more time to polish the trigger & hammer mating surfaces & now have a much smoother trigger!

If any of you folks start out to convert a cap & ball revolver to centerfire with a "drop in" cylinder & it won't work, this tip could save you headaches and money. Some of the places offer "gunsmith services" for issues like this & I doubt any of that would be cheep.

No charge, Friends! :Thnku: :Thnku: :Thnku: SW

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 12:11 am 
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:grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :grin: :Dbounce:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 21, 2015 2:16 pm 
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Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
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Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:04 pm
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Location: On the couch a lot now that I'm retired
Pics when I get a chance - just did lawn stuff all morning & I DESPISE yard work. But it looks a little better now. I've got another kukri coming from a group buy HairyGreek put together & will attack limbs when I have it.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 9:46 pm 
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looking forward to seeing this , ive been considering something along those lines myself ,


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 3:06 am 
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Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
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Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:04 pm
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Location: On the couch a lot now that I'm retired
I'm taking a trip off from the RR & will post detailed pics of the process later today.

There's a lot more hand fitting required for these "drop in" projects than meets the eye. SW

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 10:47 pm 
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Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
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Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 11655
Location: On the couch a lot now that I'm retired
All righty then! So you score a cheep BP revolver and elect to put a center fire cylinder in it. After peeling out $200 + it arrives and you follow the "Drop in" instructions & try to cock it. No dice - it's locked up tight. Dang! What to do? WEll. you could send it back and PAY their "gunsmith" to fix it for you - to the tune of $100 +!!

Or you can do this... First pic we see serious drag marks on the Uberti cylinder on the left. The new Taylor 38 cylinder is in the center & my Pietta 1851 cylinder on the right. The cylinder stop barely worked on the original BP cylinder and flat would not on the 38 cylinder. At the factory, when it worked at all, they left well enough alone and shipped it.

fitting 001 (1024x362).jpg
fitting 001 (1024x362).jpg [ 199.04 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


Next we see the tools required - flat blade screwdriver and abrasive Dremel tip. Not shown is the knife sharpening stone.

fitting 006 (1024x477).jpg
fitting 006 (1024x477).jpg [ 208.28 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


When backing screws out I try to leave them in the same position for reassembly. This reduces the chance of cross threading when you put it back together.

fitting 007 (1008x1024).jpg
fitting 007 (1008x1024).jpg [ 270.38 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


With the grip frame off we can see the cylinder stop under the flat spring which is also for the trigger. When you order a cylinder, it's well to have a spare spring like this.

fitting 013 (1024x522).jpg
fitting 013 (1024x522).jpg [ 185.71 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


I took several pics to show how rough the cylinder stop was but only this one came out in focus. Notice the tool marks! It was never polished or hand fitted.

fitting 017 (1024x581).jpg
fitting 017 (1024x581).jpg [ 184.92 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


With some light oil you now polish the bolt stop on a knife sharpening stone. This will take a while. You want to polish a while and put everything back together for a function test. You don't want to over polish - you can take it off, but you can't put it back! Cut-n-try.

fitting 018 (960x1024).jpg
fitting 018 (960x1024).jpg [ 381.25 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


After smoothing things up, put it back for a function test again. ( cut and try) When you take it apart, watch closely how the trigger lies. You will probably need to do this 5 times.

fitting 019 (1024x683).jpg
fitting 019 (1024x683).jpg [ 231.49 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


These pics show reassembly.

fitting 021 (1024x683).jpg
fitting 021 (1024x683).jpg [ 232.5 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


fitting 021 (1024x683).jpg
fitting 021 (1024x683).jpg [ 232.5 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


Go slowly putting steel screws into the brass frame. It doesn't take much effort to strip the threads and then you will have a problem!

Having tested it, the revolver cocks smoothly like it's supposed to! Woo hoo! Now add a little gun grease or oil to the cylinder arbor.

fitting 025 (1024x683).jpg
fitting 025 (1024x683).jpg [ 232.67 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


A 36 caliber BP barrel is actually a little too large for standard 38 cal boolets. You can either use hollow base wadcutters that will expand to fit the bore or dedicated .375" round balls.

I go with the latter just because of the lighter weight. For lube I dip each round into a small container of water pump grease. A trifle messy but it saves wear & tear on my Lewis Lead Remover.

fitting 027 (1024x389).jpg
fitting 027 (1024x389).jpg [ 173.26 KiB | Viewed 6598 times ]


My criteria for converting a C&B revolver to center fire is initial cost. Since Cimarron makes 38 conversions for between 450 & 500, you want to score a revolver for 150 or less. Or if you just like a challenge. ;) :lol

This one shoots to the right & a bit low but it was a tight group. I'd rather be lucky than good! ;) :bigrin: SW

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 1:08 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 10:47 pm
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Location: North central Illinois
Good job Hogger.
www.vtigunparts.com is a good source for import gun parts.
Back when, and I mean way back when, I used to use blackpowder. To slow up the barrel leading and make it easier to clean the lead out I used Outers "gunslick". Came in a little tube, maybe a half an ounce. I'd put some on a patch and work it into the barrel, always on a clean barrel before shooting. When I came home after a day of shooting a little BP solvent and a short soak and you could see the lead come out in slivers. I don't know if it's even made anymore or not, if it is try it, sure saves using a Lewis lead remover.
By the way it worked great in .22 rimfire barrels also.
Rebel49

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 2:25 am 
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Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
Теперь предлагаем бесплатную ежедневную маммографию!
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Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:04 pm
Posts: 11655
Location: On the couch a lot now that I'm retired
I was on the Nebr State Patrol pistol team in the 70s & shot a LOT of PPC. I was issued up to a full case of wadcutters a month to practice. I kept Brownells busy sending brass screens for the Lewis Lead Remover. The mica stuff Hornady uses for wadcutter lube just doesn't work & your bore will lead up horribly.

When I shot BP, I used Crisco for lube & applied it with a metal cake decorator I swiped from Mom. Wifey doesn't use Crisco so I grabbed a tube o' water pump grease from the local auto parts store. SW

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